On this stretch of several days, we wandered though the farmlands of north-central france, staying in what they call Chambres D'Hote, which means a small apartment like room attached usually to a main house. Rather like what we would call a guest apartment or an in-law apartment back home in California.
Day 6: Short path (6 miles) to Charming Farmhouse in Saclas (nice lady made us breakfast, lit candles)
On leaving Etampes, we were greeted with a farmhouse scene with a real working water wheel. It looked like it had been there for hundreds of year, and was clearly still in use moving some sort of machinery inside the building.
On our way out of town, we were reassured by a now-familiar Campostele sign.
This walk, from Etampes to Saclas, became known as the "day of the bicycles", as were were greeting along almost the entire path, by troops of cyclists out for a ride. Some were clearly teams in training, but most were just families or couples, out for a day in the fresh air.
The path was marked all along the way, but sometimes the markers were in unusual places. This one was on a local power transformer.
Most were clearly marked sign posts. Remember, the destination of Santiago de Compostela, is still over 1,000 miles away. And still, here we have road markers. How cool is that?
The road out of Etampes toward Saclas was beautiful.
On entering Saclas, we were greeted by a beautiful riverside view, just as you enter town.
We also found a market in Saclas, with fresh fruits and vegetables, including some tabouli, which we planned to add to a baguette for lunch.
Most markets in France have people who pick your produce for you. In this case, you serve yourself.
This market had all the makings for a wonderful lunch in the park.
The farmhouse we stayed at in Saclas was charming, and we were the only guest though there were several rooms. WiFi was good, and that helps a lot.
This place is a real farm. The rooms to rent are just a small side business to the real work of running a farm.
Day 7: Saclas to Mereville
Another beautiful day to stroll the French countryside.
Arriving in Mereville, we see the river, and an old wash-house on the bank.
The town of Mereville was pleasant enough, but we couldn't find anything open to buy bread, food, or even a cup of coffee.
The Mereville cathedral was pretty.
A pretty tree-lined street in Mereville.
Our Chambres D'Hote was clean, charming, and had a full kitchen.
Unfortunately, the kitchen went unused, because the town had apparently no food available. :-(
We did find a pharmacy, and discovered some excellent blister bandages. What a relief!
Although a bit expensive, and therefor a bit risky to try, these two types of bandages, Compeed and Digitubes, proved invaluable. They worked so well that I never had a problem with blisters again (so far anyway -- knock on wood).
Day 8: Mereville to Angerville
By now, the road is a welcoming and familiar place to take a daily walk.
We passed a barn that was processing potatoes. If only we could have had some back when we had a kitchen :-(
The way is easy to find, winding between farmer's fields.
When we start to get into Angerville, it becomes a bit more modern than most towns we've been in recently.
We check into the only hotel in Angerville. Didn't find any Angry Birds ;-)
The room was a bit fancy for us, being in backpacking clothes and all. But very comfortable and welcoming.
Curiously, when we arrived to check in, the clerk (she) just handed us a key. No ID, no signing anything, no demand for money. We asked, and she said, "pay when you leave". Also, the hotel is closed on Sunday, so if you want to stay over, they give you a key so you can get in and out. Gotta love this place.
Day 9: Angerville to Janville (here, take the key, coffee was good, keys in doors, bathroom like 2" away from the bed)
After a day in Angerville, it's back on the way for us. The path follows along another highway, and we aren't too happy about that. But we have bread, and something to eat for a break, so we head out to another adventure.
When we got lucky, we could walk in a farmer's field. Most of the path was right alongside the highway.
The strong and constant winds in the area keep these giant windmills spinning.
I really don't like walking along highways :-( This was not the "official GR655 way". To give them credit, they wouldn't have us marching along a highway. But the direct path to Janville was 10 miles and the GR655 (official Chemin de Saint Jacques) would take us over 15 miles out of our way to another area entirely. We just didn't have the feet or the time, and there weren't any hotels along that path. So, the highway it is…..
Janvlle was small, but pretty. We arrived and were delighted to find our hotel adjacent to the center of town, cathedral, and town square (such as it was).
Here again, the hostess simply handed us a key. She also gave us a key to the hotel front door, in case we wanted to go out after they closed at 9PM.
Downstairs, we had a life-saving coffee, before going up to our room.
Later on, we explored Janville, and had a cold beer to take away the aches of the day.
Day 10: Janville to Artenay (mystery hidden restaurant in -good coffee-nice old lady, fields, wine bottle, baguette, and rain)
It's hard to explain, but I have never tired of this kind of scenery. A quiet walk in the countryside, one imagines somebody from Mayberry walking to town, or perhaps a medieval knight riding along the country road…..
On the way to Artenay, we expected to stop for a rest and a coffee in one of the little towns along the way. Again, we were confronted with no sign of life.
In the town of Santilly, we found a couple of schoolboys playing in the street (it was a school holiday), and asked them if there was anyplace to get a drink and a coffee. They looked at us funny, as if "everybody knows" and said "of course, right over there" pointing to a building on the next block over.
This is the building they were pointing to (the grey one on the left). Can you find the cafe?
We clearly didn't understand, so we repeated and pantomimed that we wanted a restaurant, and they looked at us strangely, and then led us over to this place. We asked "are you sure" and they nodded. We asked "is it open" and they said "just go in". So we did. We felt like we were walking into somebody's home. We figured we would be yelled at in the minimum, arrested perhaps, or maybe shot. But here goes…...
In side, we find…… a restaurant. WTF? how in the world would anybody find this place, yet everybody in town already knows, i guess, so who needs a sign.
The proprietor was a delightful woman who laughed and shared stories as we enjoyed some of the best coffee the world has ever tasted. She tried her best to avoid my camera, but I caught her off-guard with the "backward facing camera trick". Whoever you are, in Santilly, France, please know that there are two Americans who love you!
She also told us there had been a couple of other pilgrims though town about a month ago. We wondered how they found the place?
Leaving Santilly, we head out refreshed and fortified, and on toward Artenay.
More highway walking, at least this time there is a guard rail, but the path is uneven and walking is not easy. That and the rain made for a less-than cheerful time.
But arrive in Artenay we did, and this time we stayed in an "ultramodern" hotel. These little things are all about in France, but we tried to avoid them because they looked too sterile. At this point, I am beginning to see the attraction, however. They are constructed with modular elements, each room being self-contained. Even the bathrooms are little modules. Really, the rooms look like cruise-ship berths. All small, all simple, very functional, and comfortable.
Once again, we encountered a small festival in town, enjoyed some snacks, crepes, pastries, and a couple of beers with the locals.
From here, we head to Saran, a suburb on the north of the city of Orleans.
Until then…..
Buen Camino!
