Thursday, May 10, 2012

Day 4: Arpajon-Etrechy

Arpajon-Etrechy


It's been several days since I updated this blog, and that is partly because of fatigue, partly because there is so much to see, partly because of bad internet connections, and partly where laziness.


Since the last update (the day of the brambles), we have travelled some 60 miles on foot between Arpajon and Orleans. To put this in perspective for Californians, imagine someplace a one hour drive from where you are now. Now, imagine doing that on foot. With a backpack. And give yourself about a week. For some people, this seems like a lot, for others it seems like no big deal.


For us, it's been something of a whirlwind tour, and I'll try to summarize by day.


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Day 4: Long march to Etrechy


We had looked at a website French Grand Randonnee paths near Paris that showed the path of the GR655 from Arpajon to Etrechy, and were tempted to follow that route. We liked having the reassurance of trail markers, and didn't want to get lost and risk a repeat of the "day of the brambles" . The problem was we knew it was a long day already, around 8-10 miles, and this route looked like it snaked around into the woods so much it made the day an unrealistic 20 miles.




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So, we settled on a Google path that seemed more direct, and we were careful to avoid wherever possible traveling alongside big highways. This path would take us through several small towns, where we expected to find food, drink, and some rest stops along the way.




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The day started out nicely, the path following between young fields of wheat and other crops.


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Small towns along the way, broke up the monotony and gave us some visual references.


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And then back out of town and into the farmlands. This area is justly known as the "wheat belt" of France.




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Every one in a while, the path would pass into forested areas, that would add charm to pass the time.




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In time, we cam to the town of Torfou, where we thought we would stop for lunch. But that was not to be, as we saw nothing that even remotely resembled a place to stop, and in fact, other than a few frogs near a pond, we saw no signs of life here at all. So we figured we would go on to the next town, Chamarande, just a couple of miles down the way.




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So, back on the road we went, Chamarande visible in the distance.


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Chamarande had a little more life to it. We found a nice park and asked a fellow there if there was anyplace in town to eat. "Oh, no", this is too small a town for any restaurants, cafes, or grocery stores. Not even a bread baker. You have to go to Etrechy, up the road.


Well, we were heading for Etrechy anyway, so on we went.








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The path was pleasant enough, and in time, we arrived at where Google maps told us our lodging could be found. Instead, it was nowhere near, but with a phone call, our host Nicolas came to pick us up and took us to the farmhouse, which we had passed about a mile back.




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The people who own the Ferme de Vintue could not have been more welcoming or helpful. Nicolas and his sister Clair turned out to be the son and daughter of the owners Val and Jacky, whom had owned the farmhouse for 30 years. They had turned it into an event venue, and hosted weddings, corporate events, etc., while renting out just a couple of rooms to travelers like ourselves.   


Our room was very comfortable, and even though they had something like 200 people at a corporate party the night we stayed there, we couldn't hear a peep (we tried) through the stone walls of the old house.


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The only hitch was that those same stone walls seemed to block the local WiFi signal, but in response, our hosts invited us onto the family patio, where we enjoyed great conversation, champagne, and some home-made treats. Nicolas knew the manager of a hotel in our next stop Etampes, and he volunteered to call for us, sparing us the struggle of French over cell phones. (Thank you again, Nicolas, we will remember your kindness forever).


The town of Etrechy was charming, and we enjoyed some of the local flavors.






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That's it for Etrechy, next we move along to Etampes…..




Buen Camino!













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