Day 5: Short hike with rain and first mosquitos in the forests, lunch on a log.
Pretty much right off the mark, we started to see markers for the Grand Randonnee (GR655), and that was reassuring. While we hadn't gotten lost for the last couple of days, it somehow gives you a great sense of comfort and protection to think that the path is marked for you to travel a 1,000 miles to Santiago de Compostela, just by following these trail markers.
Soon, the trail took us into the woods, where the trail markers were frequent, sometimes hard to miss, and sometimes harder to see.
If you zoom in on this picture, you can see the path to the left is correct, with the path to the right marked with a red and white cross as if to say "not this way". We found the markings excellent, and just about every time we needed to make a decision which way to go, there was a reassuring marker to help us on the way.
The terrain got a little hilly, and this gave the first chance to try out our hiking poles, and the verdict was unanimous: THANK YOU to whoever recommended we bring them (two not just one). The practice we did on the bluffs in Bakersfield before we left were very helpful, otherwise this might have been a bit more intimidating than it was.
On the way, we found that the woods were hot and humid, even though the day was cool. I guess the trees blocked the wind. Anyway, we ran into our first misquotes here, and a few giant snails (no wonder the french eat these things -- they are as big as as your fist).
We decided to stop for lunch in the forest, having brought food today (after yesterday's unsettling lack of food on the trail). We ate oranges, bananas, bread, and water sitting on a log. It was better than any four-star restaurant. Really.
At this lunch stop, we also made our first acquaintance with "stinging nettle", an obnoxious plant that looks rather pleasant but stings like a thousand bees, and makes you feel like your skin is on fire when you touch it. The pain went away after a few minutes, but man, that was an uncomfortable and somewhat scary few minutes. Stay away from this little beast!
The rest of the day, the forest routes were pleasant and well-marked.
Finally, we broke out of the woods, and headed towards town for a well-deserved rest in town.
Once in town, we found a very helpful sign to our hotel, and found it without trouble. That was nice, since yesterday, our map showed the hotel on the wrong side of the train-tracks, and we couldn't get there from where the map had indicated.
Etampes is a fairly large city, with all the things a pilgrim needs to be happy. Boulangerie, patisserie, cafe, supermarche, etc. It was pleasant enough we decided to stay an extra day, during which we could rest our blisters and sore muscles.
There are three major cathedrals in Etampes, which reflects it's importance in the middle ages. Each neighborhood (farmers, butchers, merchants) wanted their own cathedral in their own section of town. 
Food choices were plentiful, with many restaurants (we generally avoid restaurants because we prefer simpler fair, but the restaurants in Etampes are many and varied.)
This is a window display from a local deli (charcuterie).
Town hall
Not being very fond of meat, we wound up eating a hot lunch at a chinese place. Interestingly, though they serve meals on a plate, they first put them into a plastic container and weigh them… you are charged for the weight of the meal, not a "flat rate" like most places.
Flower market in Etampes
We were there on the right day for this farmer's market in a downtown square (it was a Saturday, if I remember correctly).
We picked up what was beginning to be a standard snack, available anywhere, portable in our backpacks, and delicious served in hotel rooms, on picnic tables, rocks, or even logs.
Found a wonderful Indian restaurant in Etampes, where we were served some of the best biryani and dahl we've ever had.
The city of Etampes sits on the farthest navigable reach of the Seine river in this area. For this reason, it was a center of commerce, from which all the local farm products were shipped, usually to Paris.
At the main cathedral, we found a sign that offers "hebergement" (shelter) to pilgrims on the way to Santiago. We went to the address given, and though we were not looking for a place to stay, we had a chance to meet the fellow who handles pilgrim needs.
In addition to stamping our passports, we had a half-english, half-french conversation with him, and he shared that each year they get around 80 pilgrims traveling from Paris, and of those, he had never met any Americans. Imagine all the effort set up to help those on camino, and Americans so seldom do this. He said this had been a busy year, with 20 pilgrims in the last month alone.
Etampes is a charming city, and we enjoyed our stay there immensely. Tomorrow, we're off through a series of small towns, moving in the direction of Orleans.
Until then,
Buen Camino!
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